4-17-2016: Day 21, Day In Cordova

Day 2 in Seville

The three cities we wanted to visit in Southern Spain are Granada, Check, Seville, Check, and Cordova, coming up!  We have arranged a guide today and up drives Nicolas right on time.  Off we go for an hour and half drive but we stop not quite half way to see the cute town of Carmona.  

This little village is full of charm as it sits on a hill and all the homes and buildings of the narrow streets are white.  The white walls are from the Moors who were used to living in the desert and know white reflects heat and helps keep things cool.  And it gets hot in Cordova and Seville in the Summer.  

It is still sleepy in the village as we walk the streets and peek at the typical homes.  The defense gate to the city is unlike any we have seen and much of the ancient wall is still intact.  Back in the van we drive a short distance and up a steep grade to the top of the hill where the Spanish government has established a super nice hotel by the ancient towers and walls.  The hotel is beautiful with a garden and quiet surroundings with only the bird cheers breaking the silence.  But our guide leads us to the best part - a viewing platform off the reception area that is just stunning.  

The valley falls away from the platform and the view across the valley to the horizon and mountains is endless.  Half-way across the valley is an old Roman Bridge over the river and it brings memories of movies showing the good guys looking down from the castle walls at the approaching invading army stretching across the valley.  This would be a place to stay or at least sip a drink but we have sights to see today and so we continue the trip to Cordova.

Cordova was the seat of the 10th century Caliphate for hundreds of years and the Great Mosque or Mezquita is the main reason we have come for a visit.  But first we have some coffee and then take a walk across the old Roman Bridge toward the old City.  At the edge of the River there still stands remains of a water wheel that was used to draw water from the river to a series of aqueducts that gave water in endless supply to the city.  Halfway across the river is a monument to a martar of the city, whose name escapes me, during the time of the Spanish Inquisition.  Once the Christains regained control of the City, folks of other faiths, be it Jew or Muslim, were given a choice;  "You can stay and become Christain, you may leave the City or you can dangle from a rope wrapped around your neck".  

We enter the City though a gate and enjoy walking around seeing the sights and the famous flower street.  One very narrow street is filled with pots of flowers covering the walls and it makes a nice sight.  Walking the streets we get a bit worn and riding in the van for a long stretch makes a change of pace sound good.  So we duck inside a nice restaurant for a bit of wine and relax to get ready for our tour of the Great Mosque.  

The building was originally a pagan temple, then a Christian Church before the Moors converted it into a mosque.  It is now a World Heritage site and one of the most accomplished sites of Moorish Spain.  It is a strange thing to see.  Our guide describes it as a forest of Islamic arches and that is a good way to put it.  The area is very large.  In fact the original Mosque could hold 5,000 worshippers who of course come to face Mecca when they  pray. Oops!  It seems the building had so many builders from the pagan and Christian days the mosque does not quite face Mecca and that makes it unique among Mosques.  But it is a beauty and so interesting to see and imagine so many people gathering to pray.  And just as strange to find a Church right in the middle of the mosque with Christian paintings on the walls.  Instead of tearing down the mosque, the Christians just put a Cathedral in the middle and it is beautiful.  

That was fun but we are a little tired so we sneak in a nap on the ride back.  After dinner we turn in early and get a good nights rest.  Tomorrow we fly again and this time we fly to Bilbao - right in the center of Basque Country on the border between Spain and France.  The reason may not be a surprise - this is our entry to the La Rioja wine region of Spain.  Let's go!