4-18-19 2016: Day 22 & 23, To La Rioja!

What a view we are having as we approach Bilbao!  A rugged coastline is off to one side of the plane and on the other side are beautiful mountains and hills sprinkled with green meadows and small villages.  This is going to be great and we are charged up.  

The airport is beautiful and designed by a famous architect of the area.  Our bags keep up with us and we are off for another hour and half drive to our hotel.  The drive is beautiful and reminds us of the Sierra Nevada and foothills.  But the little villages give it a special charm.  Soon the vines appear and these guys have been around for a long time.  

When the French vines were hit with Phylloxera they looked for ways to save the future wine.  Good grief can you imagine France without wine!  Of course we like to say we saved France by giving them some of the vines that they originally took to America but the French also took wine growing to Spain in La Rioja.  

We are enjoying the ride when all of a sudden up springs our hotel Marques de Riscal.  

When Tina and Clyde were looking for a hotel in the La Rioja, up pops this stunning and beautiful Hotel/Winery and we said, "Book it!".  

The vineyard was founded around 1850 who learned his craft in France.  The winery has 492 acres and like many wines, has had its good and bad years.  But it remains one of the most respected in the region and on everyone's list to visit.  We blew our savings from rooms and cheap dinners and inexpensive (but wonderful!) wine while in Spain and for the next two days we live in luxury in this beautiful place.  

It is cold outside and rain spends most of our time here but we really do not care as we catch up on the blog, wash a sock or two, organize and just plain take it easy.  Oh so nice.  

The food is wonderful, the staff a joy and the surroundings so peaceful and relaxing.  We cancel the wine tour (been there, done that) and an invitation to visit another winery (enough all ready) and just enjoy.  Following two wonderful days, we catch our ride back to the airport with plenty of time to spare when, what?  Our off-ramp is blocked and no easy way to go round and; stop! The freeway is full of cars and ain't nobody moving.  People are getting out to look around and the clock is ticking on our flight time.  Oh, well, nothing we can do.  

We always leave plenty of time so no panic yet.  Finally we move and see the reason for the problem - a terrible accident between two trucks.  So we make the next turnoff, backtrack to the original off-ramp and thank goodness we were early cause the back up of cars is endless.  "Please do not have a long line to check", we think.  No problem!  The airport is empty so we stroll up to the counter and dump our bags and pass through security with no one in front or no one behind us.  How about that!  The folks at Iberia Air gets our vote and even Clyde and Krim have seats with room for legs.  Here we come Madrid!

 

4-17-2016: Day 21, Day In Cordova

Day 2 in Seville

The three cities we wanted to visit in Southern Spain are Granada, Check, Seville, Check, and Cordova, coming up!  We have arranged a guide today and up drives Nicolas right on time.  Off we go for an hour and half drive but we stop not quite half way to see the cute town of Carmona.  

This little village is full of charm as it sits on a hill and all the homes and buildings of the narrow streets are white.  The white walls are from the Moors who were used to living in the desert and know white reflects heat and helps keep things cool.  And it gets hot in Cordova and Seville in the Summer.  

It is still sleepy in the village as we walk the streets and peek at the typical homes.  The defense gate to the city is unlike any we have seen and much of the ancient wall is still intact.  Back in the van we drive a short distance and up a steep grade to the top of the hill where the Spanish government has established a super nice hotel by the ancient towers and walls.  The hotel is beautiful with a garden and quiet surroundings with only the bird cheers breaking the silence.  But our guide leads us to the best part - a viewing platform off the reception area that is just stunning.  

The valley falls away from the platform and the view across the valley to the horizon and mountains is endless.  Half-way across the valley is an old Roman Bridge over the river and it brings memories of movies showing the good guys looking down from the castle walls at the approaching invading army stretching across the valley.  This would be a place to stay or at least sip a drink but we have sights to see today and so we continue the trip to Cordova.

Cordova was the seat of the 10th century Caliphate for hundreds of years and the Great Mosque or Mezquita is the main reason we have come for a visit.  But first we have some coffee and then take a walk across the old Roman Bridge toward the old City.  At the edge of the River there still stands remains of a water wheel that was used to draw water from the river to a series of aqueducts that gave water in endless supply to the city.  Halfway across the river is a monument to a martar of the city, whose name escapes me, during the time of the Spanish Inquisition.  Once the Christains regained control of the City, folks of other faiths, be it Jew or Muslim, were given a choice;  "You can stay and become Christain, you may leave the City or you can dangle from a rope wrapped around your neck".  

We enter the City though a gate and enjoy walking around seeing the sights and the famous flower street.  One very narrow street is filled with pots of flowers covering the walls and it makes a nice sight.  Walking the streets we get a bit worn and riding in the van for a long stretch makes a change of pace sound good.  So we duck inside a nice restaurant for a bit of wine and relax to get ready for our tour of the Great Mosque.  

The building was originally a pagan temple, then a Christian Church before the Moors converted it into a mosque.  It is now a World Heritage site and one of the most accomplished sites of Moorish Spain.  It is a strange thing to see.  Our guide describes it as a forest of Islamic arches and that is a good way to put it.  The area is very large.  In fact the original Mosque could hold 5,000 worshippers who of course come to face Mecca when they  pray. Oops!  It seems the building had so many builders from the pagan and Christian days the mosque does not quite face Mecca and that makes it unique among Mosques.  But it is a beauty and so interesting to see and imagine so many people gathering to pray.  And just as strange to find a Church right in the middle of the mosque with Christian paintings on the walls.  Instead of tearing down the mosque, the Christians just put a Cathedral in the middle and it is beautiful.  

That was fun but we are a little tired so we sneak in a nap on the ride back.  After dinner we turn in early and get a good nights rest.  Tomorrow we fly again and this time we fly to Bilbao - right in the center of Basque Country on the border between Spain and France.  The reason may not be a surprise - this is our entry to the La Rioja wine region of Spain.  Let's go!

4-16-2016: Day 20, Seville

The hotel is very nice although the room Clyde and Krim get requires cooperation to move around and turn signals to avoid a crash.  Sort of like driving in the old city so narrow that when a car comes those walking must flatten themselves against the wall to avoid flat feet of a different kind. 

In this area, the Cathedral Santa Maria de la Sede dominates the old City and is a beautiful sight from the hotel terrace.  The Cathedral is the third largest cathedral inn Europe.  Think so that!  Only the Vatican in Rome and the Saint Paul in London is larger!  We will have to take a tour of that place but today we just go for a walk to see what the town has to offer. What we find is rain and lots of shoe stores.  Lots and lots of shoe stores.  But the shoes are high quality and with so much style it kills us.  If you want to get really good shoes you might pay a visit to Nordstroms and pay a fortune for an OK, boring shoe.  Here we see shoe after shoe for under $100 so unusual and with so much style and quality "The Girls" are going crazy and even the guys are impressed.  Needless to say, some shoes were added to the collection.  

We shop some more but the rain is getting serious so Jim and Tina head back with a stop at the Cathedral.  Clyde and Krim stay and bit longer and then take time to see the Cathedral.  It is a wonder but perhaps best known because this is the place Christopher Columbus has been laid to rest.  Columbus may have his detractors in the US but he is pretty popular here and his tomb is the most unusual we have seen.  

Near the center of the Catedral are four very large statues of men in various dress carrying a coffin holding the remains of Columbus. One of the chapels in the Cathedral was the place Magellan said a prayer of thanks following his successful at being the first to travel 'round the world by ship.  The Cathedral began as a Mosque in the 12th century and is 328 feet high. Krim and Clyde see a sign pointing to the bell tower and we think, "Why not?"  About 30 stories later of walking up the ramp we wonder, "What were we thinking?".  But the view of the Gargoyle and transept is amazing and of the city beyond compare.  No matter how many Cathedrals you see it is still a marvel how they built them.  Of course it was a wonder back then and the secret of how to build them was closely held and kept from others.  It was trial and error and many of the Cathedrals failed, roofs collapsd, spires fell but it was still a mighty show of power and strength and wealth.

Still raining when we exit the Cathedral but Krim and Clyde opt to visit the shopping district cause Krim has decided on the color of purse she "needs". Now the rain is really coming down so we duck into a passage to wait out the worse of it.  We wait and finally decide it is not getting better so we slouch through the rain and arrive at the hotel with only a small part of us dry.  It takes awhile for us to dry off but the rain has let up and we hit the street headed for the restaurant.  The restaurant has super nice people and staff so we enjoy being dry, full of good food and nice wine.

The rain is gone and as we leave the restaurant and enter the Cathedral square a party atmosphere is in the air.  Seville holds a well known festival each year and folks come from all around to attend.  The ladies dress in traditional dresses so pretty with flowers in their hair and they are in a great mood.  We spot the prettiest couple walking toward us and ask if we can take a photo and they say, "Sure".  We have a great time with them talking of the festival and city and find he is a Pharmacist from Toledo, Spain and has been with this Lady for only 3 months.  We bid them good-bye and pause to look at the Cathedral in flood lights in the square with people in a party mood and it is magical.  What is this?  Our new friends walk over to us and say, "We are headed to the festival and have extra tickets, would you like to join us at a private party?"  "Well, yes we would", we say,  Let's take a horse drawn carriage and this is getting to be beyond cool and we are like kids taking pictures and waving at folks.  

The festival is held at the edge of the city.  The opening of the festival is a big deal when thousands of lights are switched on and it looks like Disneyland.  We walk the grounds and find the private building for our party and are prepared to say we deal in drugs as our cover.  Good thing we were never asked.  The drink of choice is half and half white wine and Sprite.  In this mood it is all wonderful and we talk and laugh and have a grand 'ol time.  Up come the ladies in their dresses and a couple of guys to do the traditional dance and it is the cutest and most beautiful thing you can imagine. We hit the wall around midnight and bid farewell but these Spanish people are just warming up.  The Spanish begin to think about dinner at 9 and think about going to the club around midnight or 2AM and think about going home around 5AM.  It is a different clock here and God love 'um, it works.

Seville is old - really old.  The Phoenicians were here first with trading posts by the river.  They brought knowledge of iron work and gold processing.  Next came the Romans and all this came several hundred years BC.  The Moors Captured the city in the 11th century and it took the Christians 400 years to win it back.  But through out these times Seville was in the shadow of Córdoba to the East.  That all changed when Columbus gave all the trading rights to the city of Seville.  Now the city is in the money and it quickly grew into the wealthiest and most cosmopolitan city in Europe and kept that position for several hundred years.  The glory days are gone but tourist fill the streets and the city goes on finding new ways in the old and new buildings.

Loving Seville and our new freinds who took us under their wings!

 

4-15-2016: Day 19, To Granada!

We ran into a problem with planning this part of the trip and the only way to make it work is to suffer one day.  Today we suffer and it begins at 3 AM.  Thank goodness for the Hotel Casa Camper where we are staying as they have food available 24 hours a day.  We find rolls, yogurt and coffee.  And of all days to get sick Krim has caught either the Black Plaque or a nasty cold.  It came on strong the night of our concert and with a hard day ahead we pull out the drugs we have to get her through.

We scheduled a lot of flights in Spain but the airports and flights are working and our hour or hour and a half flights get us every where we want to go.  Granada is where we land and our guide for the day takes us for a traditional breakfast of bread and we head for the famous Alhambra.  We knew the Alhambra is big but oh my, it is really big.  Not so much a building, this is a city.  Begun as a fortress for the Moors that conquered Spain it expanded to include several palaces, majestic Arabic gates and intricate carvings. This is the most significant Islamic architecture of Spain and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Some parts of the Alhambra look familiar and we find that Gaudi was a fan of the Alhambra and used the columns and ceilings in the Sagrada Família.  Our tour takes 3 hours and it is just enough to get a feeling of the place.  The fortress was so well planned and situated on a hill of good defense that Granada was the last place to be taken back by the Church.  But is took 800 years!

Looking up at the Alhambra from the town below is an awesome sight.  Lights shine on the Alhambra at night and we wish we could stay to see but you can't have everything my Mama used to say.  So we walk the old section of the city and climb the hill opposite the Alhambra.   It is a climb but we stop half-way for lunch at a delightful local place under shade and find a great salad and wine and beer and it is wonderful.  The folks we have met in Spain have been so delightful and genuine!  The walk is good as we reach the top for an incredible view of the Alhambra and town.  Walking the trails it is evident folks are living in them thar hills.  It is a unique part of Granada that when some folks arrived they did not want or could not afford to live in town so they started to live in the hills.  Soon they dug caves in the hill and some got more and more elaborate with several rooms.  No electric or water or sewer and no taxes.  Finally the City leaders offered city services in exchange for some tax.  However, others have come and started new caves above that can only be reached by trails.  As we walk we find one that for a Euro will allow a walk through.  It has all the convenience of electric and water and because it is inside the hill, the temperature is nice.  Not for us but the folks seem pretty happy about the arrangements.

 So our tour of Granada and the Alhambra is done and it is time to hit the road to our hotel three hours by van in Seville.  So we say goodby to our guide and we enter the van with a driver that speaks no English but is a cheerful fellow.  For three hours we see the land and much, a whole bunch of it is covered by olive trees.  Miles and miles and acres and acres of land in olive trees.  We have never seen such a thing.  Finally we reach Seville and that is when our driver makes it known that he is not sure where exactly our hotel is located.  "He is kidding, right?"  No he is not.  

We get lucky and we find a hotel and our driver is so happy.  It is raining cats and dogs now but he is so happy he throws out our luggage and we roll in to show our reservation to the nice folks and they say, "Oh no, this is not the right hotel!"  We shout at our driver, back in the rain, throw the bags in the van and we are off again.  

Our hotel is located next to the Cathedral but the streets are so narrow and so winding and so confusing we arrive at 9:30 PM and are still circling at 11:00.  It is getting kind of weird as our driver stops, asks, drives, calls for help, drives and finally just stops.  We suggest, "Let's get a cab and follow him".  Cabs are not cooperating - maybe it's a union thing!  

Our poor driver has reached the end of his rope and has navigated this big van through narrow streets how, we do not know cause our eyes were closed in fright most of the time.  We decide to call the hotel and finally they agree to send a person, who jumps in the van and guides our driver to our hotel.  

So glad Jim and Tina had the brilliant idea to hit a Deli in Granada before the drive to pick up olives, bread, cheese and plenty of wine.  The deli was wonderful and as fun as it was it seems the saints were on our side now as we will eat in our rooms tonight.  We did two bottles and good deli food to calm our nerves and replenish our bodies.  It started at 3AM and it is past midnight now so we all hit the bed for a well deserved rest. 

4-14-2016: Day 18, Barcelona

Jim and Tina get up before the crowds and go out for a morning walk to the port of Barcelona and Krim and Clyde have tickets for a concert tonight in one of the beautiful churches.

The cobble stones streets for much of our trip in the old sections of the city are taking a toll on our feet and it is good to mind your step cause there are plenty of opportunities to stumble.  But the rumor is that Spain and leather go together like a horse and carriage.  

We are after the leather today and Tina is charged up and ready.  However, trying to trace the steps of our guide through the winding parts of the old town is not easy - almost impossible.  We want the stuff from the makers, not some department store where the goods all look the same the world over.  Tina is determined and when Tina is determined she travels at very near the speed of light and she talks really fast and zoom - she is off!  We cannot keep up and the last we see of Tina is down a narrow street and round the corner.  So the three of us wait thinking surly she will miss us and come back.  Nope.  Tina has hit warp speed and there is no stopping her.  The three of us give up, look for shops for awhile thinking Tina may show but soon we give up and Jim makes a great suggestion we stop for wine and beer.  Wonderful idea!  All of a sudden the phone rings and its Tina!  Back at the Hotel now, Tina has spoken to the Hotel folks who help her find some shops so we plan a meeting place and we are together again.  Tina slows down for us on this walk and we find the good stuff.  Krim gets a belt, Tina scores a purse and a hat.  

Krim and Clyde head out for the concert and tomorrow we head for Granada and our day starts early.  Really early. 

4-13-2016: Day 17, Barcelona

3rd Day in Barcelona,

Anna is waiting for us in the lobby at 9:30 AM just like she said she would.  The hotel has set us up with Anna and Clyde picked one of her tours to get to know Barcelona a little better.  Bingo, we got the right person.  Anna was born and raised in Barcelona and she knows her stuff.  In fact, to become a licensed tour guide she had to study history, food and culture for an intensive 8 months following graduation from college and then pass a difficult  test to qualify.  We walk and the story begins.  

Turns out the famous La Rumbla was a passage to the sea for the sewer and waste in the Roman days and it is somehow funny to see the folks flock to the sewer to buy, buy buy.  We leave as soon as possible  as Anna leads us to the most famous market place in Barcelona - St. Joseph's Market.  

Set off the Main Street with a large roof overhead and a cocophany of sound and sight.  Our eyes shift right, then left, then up then back and our head is turning every which way.  Stalls with fruits, vegetables, flowers, beautiful meats of every description.  Hams are important here.  In fact we are told if you really want to give the ultimate present to someone flowers are nice, olive oil is great but above all is the special ham.  Whole leg, with hoof, are hanging in the meat section and each have a tag around the hoof of various colors.  Forget the red tag or the yellow tag,  the black is where it's it.  Now the pig that was once attached to these black legs lived a good life - for a time that is.  If the pig looks good and makes the cut it is taken to a special area with acorn trees and they feast and feast.  Several restaurants and deli have a pig leg set in a vice and with a good Spanish knife they will shave off a thin slice for the asking and money.  The seafood section was really impressive with every Atlantic sea creature in the book and still others from the   and it is in abundance.  The seafood is on ice and looks as fresh as can be.  Amazing and super clean the local folks visit several times a week to snag a meal at the many counters or to take some home.  The counters started when the vendors in the stalls paused for a break after starting work in the very early morning and it became so popular others wanted in on the action.

We head into the Gothic Area, the original Barcelona born under Roman rule and the roads still follow the same routes.  All of a sudden the Cathedral appears and it is impressive but a bit of a fake.  It turns out a benefactor of the City and a man with money decided the Cathedral was a bit shabby and should get a face lift before the  Olympic Games in the 1970s.  They worked fast and  in only a few months the work was done and without research most folks take it for the original.  The route we take is narrow and still more narrow as we enter the original Jewish area and hear how they were eventually pushed out and to this day have not returned in large numbers.  The Spanish Inquisition was a nasty time in Spanish history.  Anyone not willing to leave there faith for the Roman Catholic religion was in deep trouble.  Some of the most gruesome torture known to man was invented here - the rack, the gibblet and others that literally pulled a person apart and finally death by hanging was used to "cleanse" the city.  

The "Old Days" were not always so great.

Yuck!  But on to some better stuff as we emerge into the main square with impressive steps lead to a flat area where the Queen could address the people of Barcelona and receive Ambassadors from other lands and kingdoms.  On one very special day Queen Isabella  received Christopher Columbus here following his voyage to the New World.  Since the Queen was a main benefactor of his voyage, he brought presents to impress the Queen including some Native people, gold, silver, plants, animals and who knows, maybe some sea shells.  Oh yeah, he was a hit even if he did find the wrong continent.  There is a copy of the contract Columbus signed with the Queen and Church for viewing and it was impressive.  Columbus got a small percentage of what he found and the Church and Queen got all the rest of everything he found till the end of his days.  Turns out there was enough for everybody and  it all worked out.  There is a great hall just off the steps where the official business of the Queen was conducted and only recently found. Not all things were recorded in those days but there was a document speaking of the great hall but its location was a puzzle for folks.  Finally someone said, "Wait a minute, that hall should be right where the Nuns place is" and so they broke through a wall and, surprise! There is the great hall and in perfect condition.  If only the walls could talk......

 

Anna leads us across the street to a special church for the folks in Barcelona.  In fact, Anna tells us all the families that have the means wish to hold the marriage of their daughters in the Santa Maria Del Mar (it used to be on the beach but is now several blocks away) Church.  The church is just lovely and built with narrow sides leading to a much larger front with 12 slender columns of support.  The result is the feeling of a ceiling lifting to the heavens.   Beautiful stained glass windows finish the feeling.  It is beautiful and a wedding here it would be one to remember.  We climb to a spot overlooking the main floor where the choir would sing and.  It must have been amazing.  The structure is beautiful but it is rather plain and the reason is interesting.  Somehow the church was set on fire, by accident is all they say, and it burned for days and days.  There is still smoke stains on the walls and only the highest stained glass survived.  As we prepare to leave we see advertisement for a concert the next evening by a Russian Ensemble doing Vivaldi.  Wow, hearing Vivaldi in a beautiful ancient church in Barcelona!  Krim and Clyde are in and Jim and Tina are also but on second thought, we must rise at 3 to catch an early flight to Granada so Jim and Tina give our guide Anna their tickets and she is happy.  The next evening Krim and Clyde make the concert and it is a packed house and they give the group a well deserved standing ovation.  The music in that church was very special indeed and I swear I still hear the sounds flowing through the church.  Good stuff!  

But meanwhile, back to the tour we Leave the old stuff behind and head for the most famous of Gaudi's works - the Sagrada Família.

We have seen pictures and read about this Cathedral but seeing it is another vision completely unexpected.  It is crazy and wonderful and whimsical and stunning all at once.

This cathedral is hailed as Antoni Gaudi's best work and finest masterpiece.  Construction began in 1882 by the much more conservative architect  Francisco de Paula del Villar.  But Del Villar and the church got into it and he was relieved of his duties.  Looking for a replacement they spoke to one of Gaudi's teachers who called Gaudi either a genius or a mad-man.  Whatever he was he was not well known and his fee was cheap so they gave him a shot.  Gaudi lived to see only one façade, the Nativity Façade, the apse, crypt and one tower complete. The church plans called for 18 towers and an area capable of accommodating 13,000 worshipers.

Following Gaudi's death in 1926 the building process dragged on slowly through the Spanish Civil War until the 50s when construction began in earnest. At present there are 8 complete towers and two facades. The building process continues and it was only in 2000 that the roof of the main nave was completed. It is hoped that construction will be complete by 2026 which marks the centennial of Gaudi's death.  The inside literally stops you in your tracks when you enter.  Your eyes cannot take in all you see in this place and one surprise after another befalls you.  The stain glass takes advantage of the placement of the building so that the sun brings fire in the day and blue light in the evening as it travels across the sky.  We have all seen nothing like this building and it will stick with us forever.

4-12-2016: Day 16, Barcelona

2nd Day in Barcelona

Wonderful Breakfast and map in hand, we hit the streets.  Jim and Tina are on a mission to find a certain luggage and since it seems like a good opportunity to see the City.  The usual stores for a wealthy city line the street - a Hermes, Escada, Hugo Boss ETC.  

We enter a large square with a pigeon population problem but beautiful statues and two large fountains.   The city here is a real mix of new and old and very old and most interesting.  We travel until we hit a crowd of people with cameras pointing at a building, a crazy building.  Casa Batllo by the most famous architect in Barcelona, Antoni Gaudi.  As usual for Gaudi, the project was controversial and broke all the building laws. However, the City Council knew a good thing when they saw it and gave it an award.  

Just up the street we find and ever better known Gaudi creation -  La Pedrera or Casa Mila is known as one of the most imaginative houses in the history of architecture.  It is also a UNESCO recognized building.  

We find the luggage, make a deal to pick up the bags in Madrid from the store that has the right color. We then find another store that has boots that need Krim's feet and a top, and Tina leaves with a couple of choice items to wear.  

The hotel is so cool we head back, grab some wine and head up to the terrace for the view and to give the shoes a rest.  The Tapas place from the night before was so good we return and we find it was not fluke - it was a hit again and so was the wine. Afterwards we stroll to the square to see the magic fountains all lit up, my..my, it was beautiful, and Spain is a hit!

4-11-2016: Day 15, To Spain!

We are leaving France and Headed to Spain!

But first, we say goodbye to our wonderful hotel and their fine hospitality...

Airports are such a pain so thank goodness for nice people.  The folks in the Bordeaux Airport are helpful cause looking for signs does not work.  But we find the line, we check out bags and go to security.  Dang - the line for security wraps around the stores and down the hall.  Good thing we listen to Jim and hit the airports early.  We wait and wonder - does this happen every day and if so, should not someone come up with a better system?  But eventually we clear customs and find the gate.  Tina gets us a seat by the gate and it turns out to be the best seat ever.  We stand and the line forms and the lady looks at us and says, "Bording pass please" and just like that we are the first ones on the plane!  Short but pretty flight over the Pyrenees and by the Mediterranean and we are in another country.  But this is the EU so no customs in Spain and we hit the "Nothing to Declare" exit and find our driver to the hotel in Barcelona, Spain!  

Whoa - this is different than the old section of Bordeaux.  Our taxi takes us down the famous La Rumba that is nothing by stores, shops, and wide median and people - lots of people.  The big boats free their folks to roam hear and other tour groups land here and it is a mass of folks.  Our hotel is off La Rumba just wide enough for the taxi and one person on each side so it takes a bit to get to the Hotel.  

We fall in love with the Hotel as it is clean, they have food and drink available 24 hours a day for the taking.  They have a wonderful breakfast included and a terrace to enjoy in peace overlooking the city.  We have four nights here and we are looking forward to it.   The guys at the desk are ready with the right answer when we say, "What do you suggest for an easy dinner not far from the hotel?".  

We walk a few short blocks for our first Tapas dinner and we love it.  The wine is wonderful (and cheap at $25 a bottle!), the staff is quick and friendly and helpful and we order a big salad that is so good, calamari, meatballs in squid sauce or something,  shrimp and it all so good. The price is so good we think we may be able to pay for Bordeaux after all.  

4-10-2016: Day 14, Bordeaux

Day 4 in Bordeaux

Clyde and Krim head out a little early to see Notre Dame Church right off the shopping area.  It is a beautiful church from the 11th century with amazing architecture and atmosphere and what is this, a mass is about to begin.  We enter and hear the organ, the pride of the church, begin and it is like magic to the ears.  We have to sit and listen and we sit for quite a while spellbound by the choir, the people, the organ and the sound of beautiful music fill the church.  Nothing quite like it!  

It is windy but sunny today so we link up with Jim and Tina and head to the River via the huge fountain and liberty lady statue.  The locals are out today to take advantage of the sun so we share the beauty of the day.  It is so pretty by the River and we turn in to the square behind the Porte Cailhau built in 1493 to celebrate a victory.  

The French are using the restaurant chairs in the sun so we have to settle for chairs close to the sun and order up wine and beer.  Oh, this is nice and we enjoy the space for awhile.  A cathedral can be seen from the Porte Cailhau and the bridge nearby and it makes for a famous picture.  So Clyde suggests we check out the cathedral a few blocks away and the others buy in. 

It's is another impressive cathedral - this one from 1350 named for St. Michel.  But this one is not as nice as there is a nasty flea market filling the square and some shady and some nice people trading money for junk.  We duck inside the church and find it is a marvel.  Originally built to replace a smaller church as the noblemen, merchants and Mariners of this prosperous are filled to small church to overflow.  We find some of the history of the church was built when the first phase of the Plaque hit that eventually killed a quarter of the city.  

Like many of the cathedrals, they need repair and this one had to be restored after parts of the roof collapsed in 1693 and the spire was broken by storms in 1608 and again 1768.  Many stained glass windows had to be replaced that were broken during World War Two.  

We have walked a bunch today and it is time to return to our hotel but it is not a straight line and we find ourselves in some not so comfortable surrounding.  We finally find a nice square and folks that point us in the right direction and we arrive with tired feet at our hotel.  Lucky, we made arrangements for the hotel to cook us dinner tonight!  

Dinner starts with oysters and Jim tells Krim and Clyde to not chew, just swallow.  That helps.  As does the wine.  Next arrives a great fish and more wine and desert and we are happy folks.  Oh so nice.  

Off to bed with our tired feet?  No way.  Clyde was bummed out cause we were supposed to walk the river and see the monuments the night before but it got late.  So tonight Jim says, "Let's go see the monuments by the River in the glow of light".  So Jim and Clyde head out. "What the hell?!!"  No lights, no water, no fun!  Looks like budget cuts have hit or else they save the best part for Summer.  Oh well, off to bed after a nice walk.

4-9-2016: Day 13, Bordeaux

Day 3 in Bordeaux

Saturday is shopping day cause Sunday the French shop people take the day off. 

So we do some lazy shopping and picking up some wine to drink.  

Tina has found a shop with beautiful chothes hand made and designed in France and so Krim and Tina spend some time trying on most of what they had.  

Dinner was only a turn or two from the hotel but it can be tricky in ancient cities with roads that do not run straight but anyway, we wonder if we are headed right.  A nice lady with a cute 10 year old kid offers to help and leads us to the restaurant, completely out of their way.  They are so nice here!  

The restaurant, Solena, has just changed hands a week ago so we are test subjects for the hotel.  It is a small place that gets busy as we dine and we declare it a winner with wonderful food and great service and wine suggestions.  

Tomorrow is Sunday so no shopping and we want to show Jim and Tina the sights we found on the River.

4-8-2016: Day 12, Bordeaux

Four days in Bordeaux was our plan and it looks like a great idea.  

Folks in France we learned are in no hurry to start the day and we fall right into the local way of life.  We wander down to breakfast at 10 and they ask what we want.  Fruit bowl is a winner, the orange juice (with lemon!) is a winner, the omelet is outstanding and the bread - well, we all love the bread!  

It is time to shop and shock - there are just as many and possibly more men's stores than ladies!  We find a dude shop and it is fun!  We all find stuff for the guys and the guys look like locals!  And the prices are, believe it or not, not bad for the good stuff we got.  Jim goes next door and scores a sweater.  

Jim and Tina wish to find a special store and Krim and Clyde head to sight see.  Tina does good with a blouse picked by Jim but the weather outside is raining so Tina declares a Blog day in the room.  

Krim and Clyde walk the River and view the beautiful buildings.  Apparently the beautiful buildings were set along the river to hide the slums and it is quite a site.  We see the gate to the City erected to celebrate a victory in the 1400s that is worth a photo or 20.  The bridge, "Pont de Pierre" is a stone bridge in the Roman style and connects the two banks of Bordeaux on the Garonne River.   Next comes the Royal Palace with a famous fountain, the "Three Graces" sitting in front of the majestic buildings.  The designer also designed part of the Palace of Versilles in Paris.  Moving up the River we see the Esplanade des quinconces and it is impressive.  One of the largest open spaces in Europe it is used to stage events in the city.  Two columns rise a couple hundred feet to serve as a gate.  There are tents everywhere filling the area and it appears they are connected to a marathon to be held in the evening.  It is raining pretty hard so we hope for better weather for the run.

What a bunch of nice people we have meant in France.  So helpful and friendly.  We head out for dinner and even with a map and good instructions from the hotel we find a way to get off the track. As we stand, map in hand, up rides a lady on a bike and says, "are you lost". "Yes" says us and we hands her our map.  She looks, thinks and points "that-a-way".  Off we go and find it we do.  

Nice folks in the restaurant and they aim to please and turn out a pork dish to relish.  And of course the wine is always very nice.  Another lazy days follows and a nice blouse appears and afternoon coffee and a walk in the rain down rue Catherine that is for people only and no cars but lots of shops and lots of people.  

We dodge to the right to find Cathedale St. Andre and Oh, it is impressive!  France holds many of the major Cathedrals and this one, also known as the Cathedral of Bordeaux is a beauty. The Cathedral was begun in the 4th century and consecrated by the Pope in 1096. Saint Andrew (Andre) was one of Jesus 12 Apostles so he deserved to have a Cathedral carrying his name.  What a place with a length of more than 1,000 feet and a height of 270 feet.  It is just amazing to think something so large and impressive could be built so long ago.  A big 'ol Clock tower stands next to the cathedral more than 120 feet tall with a bell weighing in at over 17,000 pounds.  It is thought the bell tower was separate from the Cathedral to keep the vibrations from doing harm to the structure.

4-7-2016: Day 11, To Bordeaux

Bordeaux Rocks!

Bordeaux looks nice and green from the plane and we had a nice flight.  The bag people work magic and we are out of the airport just as fast as we can walk.  "Take us to our hotel - we would like some Bordeaux wine!"  Oops - it is rush hour traffic and it is just like everywhere else at rush hour where we sit a lot and drive s-l-o-w-l-y.  Our hotel is on a narrow street in the old part of Bordeaux and the folks that greet us know our names, need no paper work and show us to our rooms.  The hotel is the former residence of a wealthy man and we share it with only 10 other rooms.  What is the best words you can hear when you enter a hotel?  "We are able (or need) to upgrade your rooms".  Score!  

The rooms are great with a shower the size of a small room.  Clyde and Krim draw the  "Crazy Room" and it has it quirks.  The rain shower head is 12 feet high and comes from a glass chandelier. The lights on one wall are a series of 12 red bubble lights - rather like boobs to be honest.  

Jim and Tina scored a big 'o room with a big shower and king bed and it is all good.  

"Let's go for a walk and eat".  

The hotel makes reservations and we are seated at a bistro filled with locals and the wine is flowing.  Wine in France is a delight.  For $20 we find wonderful whites, and Rose and Reds and we cannot believe the quality.  Food?  Well, we are all eating Bread like it is heaven sent and we all believe it is!  We expected butter and fried food and grease but we were so wrong!  The food is healthy, and so flavorful with perfect sized servings.  Serving size is the secret and walking is the ticket to no weight gain.  "The Girls" and Jim get white fish from all over the ocean and a duck for me.  Jim orders the winning plate of the night and he invites us all to scoop the broth and see what we could have had.  

Wow!  Plenty of wine and we have a ways to walk to our hotel.  But we find the hotel!  The City is beautiful and we take to it right away.  The Opera House and monuments and churches need to be seen and shopping is high on the agenda.  The folks here have style - they just look great with scarfs and plenty of flair.  

Oh dear, this could be expensive.

4-6-2016: Day 10, On Our Own in Rhone

On Our Own in the Northern Rhone

Today we relax and just walk the town of Vienne. This is another ancient town but it is small and we can walk from our Hotel. The Hotel is called the Pyramide and is located right next to a tower monument from the days of the Romans. The hotel turns out to another great choice as we are an easy walk to the old town and the staff is wonderful.  It has the most wonderful garden in the center of the hotel and the food is excellent.  

The first day we are on a mission as Jim and Tina have an airport weight problem with all the wine they bought.  The solution may be to mail the wine and other stuff home.  So we find the Post and buy boxes and Jim and Tina go back to the room to pack while Krim and I have a coffee and take in the town.  

Jim and Tina return just as the Post Office gate goes down.  It is lunch time in France and so they close from noon to 1:30.  It is after noon so we find a sidewalk cafe and a glass of wine.  So cool just watching the locals and sipping wine.  The Post Office opens and Jim and Tina give them a pile of cash and off goes the stuff and possibilities for future purchases opens.  We walk to the old town and soon discover "The Girls" would like us to go away and so Jim and I head for the historical sights and they are way cool. We walk up a steep hill looking for the stadium from the Roman times. We find it and walk out to see this place built in 40 A.D.

It is one of the most important and largest Roman Theatres in the ancient world. The Theater was abandoned at the end of the Roman era but it was fun while it lasted. The theater held racers, combats and throwing competitions and could hold 11,000. Abandoned by the emperors and disapproved by the church the theater was forgotten and buried over the years. In 1922 work began to uncover and restore the work. It is amazing to see and most closely resembles a football stadium. Down the road a few blocks is a by golly Roman Temple. One of only two remaining in France the city has created a square around the buildings. How strange to see something that we see in Italy right here in France. This city is a beauty and we stop on the Main Street in a sidewalk cafe to dine. But it is only 6 and it is "Impossible" to have dinner until 7. That is just the way it is so, we have another bottle of wine.  Love this place. It is time for Dinner and it is fairly warm so we try the sidewalk cafe.  What to have?  Frog Legs in France - Gotta have that!  The legs were great but only Clyde was game.  

Tomorrow we fly, and we fly to Bordeaux!

4-5-2016: Day 9, One More Day With Harry

Harry Takes Us On Another Learning Adventure

This is to be a half day with Harry and so we head to M. Chapoutier to start. It is raining but who cares - we are going to be tasting wine! Our guy is young but knows his stuff. "Want to see the vineyard in the rain" he says.  "Sure" we say and we grab some umbrellas and walk down the street to the vineyard. There is a lot of techtonic plates crashing together in this place that creates soil from Clay to limestone to  rocky. 

The exposure runs from South to North, so the possibilities are endless. At one time the old style wine makers would gather all the grapes together, stir well and let 'um age and work. Comes some new wine makers, such as M. Chapoutier and they wish to develop a single vineyard wine - a single variety wine - unusual blends and other innovations. But there are several layers of laws governing the wine to protect the quality and reputation of the area. Things change in France but those we meet explain, it takes time - a lot of time. 

Our tasting begins and before this is over we walk out shaking our heads thinking this is best ever! We run through the whites and we each have have a spit bucket and good thing because we are dumping and spitting like pros. We taste the first and declare it a very nice wine. "5.5 Euro upstairs" says our guide. "Get out of town" says we. Seems they are on a mission to attract and educate the young people so that the wine industry can survive into the future. Wine is losing the main buyers of wine - mature (as in diminishing) group.  M. Chapoutier is producing a good quality wine for young people with less money and bring them along eventually to higher quality and more expensive wines later on. Love the idea and logic! Impressive. 

We move through 8 whites and hit the Reds with the same philosophy. The more expensive vines are beautiful and we both purchased a $70 bottle of wonderful Chateauneuf-du-pape that they put in a box for us to take. But wait, that is not all. It is time for lunch and they host us. A lovely plate of fish and some of that wonderful bread and we thank them. But wait, comes our guide with a wonderful red wine to replace a great Riesling and a steak. But wait again, here comes a special sweet wine with desert and we are stuffed. Our half day has turned into a full day and Harry has been great to stick with us and the folks at M. Chapoutier are wonderful. We even got a visit from a family member. 

We love this place, but we must head back to our place in Vienne....

Such a good life!

4-4-2016: Day 8, We Head for Northern Rhone

Harry drives us to Vienne to our new Hotel. What a beautiful place!  We take our bags to the room and then go down to the cafe for coffee before Harry picks us up for afternoon wine tasting. These roads and signs are not always helpful and we see a bit of the countryside looking for our next winery. 

The "Cave" is located in another charming French village but the winery is big and we are the only guests. Down we go past the bottle room and into the barrel room and busy people moving stuff around. In the corner is a nice tasting and we try them out. E. Guigal makes great wine and Jim and Tina - with boxes of wine still unopened cannot help but make a purchase. 

Time for one more winery today and Harry moves us from a big producer to a Mom and Pop Shop - Jasmin Winery. It is fun to go in a small production family winery and taste some really fine wine. 

After tasting, Harry takes us out to visit the vines, and to see how different the soil and hills are from Chateneuf. It was overcast and the wind was blowing, but we zipped our coats up and all was fine. 

Back to the hotel for a fantastic dinner...you guessed it, another Michelin Star, but we are smarter now and only order the entree (they bring you all kinds of extras anyway!)

Life is Beautiful in the Northern Rhone...