Wow, we will remember that meal for a long time! They just kept bringing plate after plate until we said, "Surrender" and then they brought a couple more. But each course was a wonder and we crawled off to bed, or in my case, somewhere simular...
So we are ready for the last day and off we go with our guide Anna for a double treat this day as we visit two palaces. First stop is Pavlovsk Palace, named for the town where it is located. Paul I had the luck to be the only legitimate Son of Elizabeth I. So, Elizabeth gave the kid a little place to live - we call it an 18th century palace but to him it was a little place in the country. It is beautiful and does feel more like a home than the huge palace we visit next.
Pushkin (Catherine the Great) Palace. The Catherine Palace is named after Catherine I, the wife of Peter the Great, who ruled Russia for two years after her husband's death. Originally a modest two-storey building commissioned by Peter for Catherine in 1717, the Catherine Palace owes its awesome grandeur to their daughter, Empress Elizabeth, who chose Tsarskoe Selo as her chief summer residence. Starting in 1743, the building was reconstructed by four different architects, before Bartholomeo Rastrelli, Chief Architect of the Imperial Court, was instructed to completely redesign the building on a scale to rival Versaille.
As we drive out of town we see the soviet housing offered for free to people. There are kind of nasty looking big gray blocks and there are numerous ones holding many hundreds of people. Some look really run down and vacant. From our guide to people at the hotel and restaurants we get the same report that the soviet years following the revolution to the collapse of the soviet union were dark days for the people and they now are re-building their lives with hope for the future. Our experience with folks were very positive and most went out of their way to be nice. Granted, we were staying at one of the best hotels in Saint Petersburg and the help made the connection between American money and a good life but, we got the feeling it was a genuine outreach. Not to say the old women in the museum were lovely when my flash went off accidently but she was not carrying a weapon so it was all cool. Anyway, back to the palace. Good grief, I am not sure there is any gold left for jewely cause the palace was coated in it. As you approach the palace it is flat and easy to see it prompting a visiting German ambassador in Catherine's day to say, "it needs only a case to make it a beautiful jewel". As if that is not enough there are fountains everywhere - 110 I think was the count. The architect needed water and so the palace is located some half a mile or so from a hill with several small streams that were captured to form a lake. The lake feeds the palace fountains using gravity flow which means the fountains can run all the time until it gets so cold they water turns to ice and runs no more. The inside of the palace is gold on gold on plaster on parket floors on painted ceilings on room after room until you reach the famous amber room. The Amber room is named that because the entire room is covered with tile made of pure amber - the whole dang room is Amber. Imagine that. Not enough the palace sits on many acres of park with more fountains and buildings and right on the baltic sea. This Saint Petersburg Summer has us freezing as we walk out to our express boat that takes us back on the baltic sea to our driver who heads to the airport and we go nowhere. Ah, big cities all have traffic and construction and so we take a long drive for a short distance but arrive we do. Scan the bags, scan our bodies, check the passport, find the gate - we are headed for Estonia!
As the plane leaves Russia behind we have only great memories of the people and impressive buildings and history of this land. The Russian people have a long history of misery and suffering and sacrifice. We remember our guide mention the spot where the Germans in World War II were stopped just outside Saint Petersburg but the City was shut off in a great siege that lasted over 600 days. People starved and soldiers on both sides froze to death. Over 1 million people died in the City. Not to mention the lives lost thanks to Lenin and Stallin. We just hope the communication and door to the rest of the world is not shut off and the future brings good things to these folks - they deserve it.
Our flight was good into Tallinn....And Tallinn is wonderful!
We heard from someone that Tallinn in Estonia was a charming city and we find a hotel right in the city of the old town. Man oh man this City has everything that a boy watching movies or reading books of old Europe could want.
Our hotel once housed the telegraph for the city and so was an important link to the outside world. Looks like home to us.